Twentieth-Century Jewelry Styles

Twentieth-century jewelry styles show a fascinating evolution. We know these styles as Art Nouveau, Edwardian (or Garland), Art Deco, and Retro. Each was popular during a specific period and each has its unique style.

During the first decades of the twentieth century, the jewelry industry experienced a rebirth. This was due, in part, to the discovery of new supplies of gems and development of new manufacturing and gem-cutting techniques.

Social roles changed too, Jewelry prices were within reach of the ordinary citizen. The changing role in women in society and the rise of the middle class put new demands on the jewelry industry. In response, the industry experienced a revolution in jewelry style and design.

The first half of the twentieth century saw several distinct jewelry styles. Some were associated with are movements, others were a reaction to wartime shortages. All leave a brilliant legacy in the treasures that connoisseurs prize today.
The Art Deco style emerged after World War I and dominated the decorative arts and jewelry from 1920 through the 1930s. It was a strong reaction against the ethereal sensuality of Art Nouveau and the delicate elegance of the Garland style. Art Deco jewelry suggests post-war practicality through its strong geometric patterns in bold contrasting colors.

Art Deco features include:


Bold, contrasting colors
Strong, geometric patterns
Sleek, streamlined look, emphasizing the vertical line
Gemstones including diamonds, black onyx, lapis lazuli, rubies, emeralds, sapphires, jade, turquoise, and topaz
Carved or cabochon-cut colored gemstones
Primary colors in rich combinations and strong contrast


The Roaring Twenties were a decadent period in the history of the United States, famous for flapper fashion, gangsters and jazz music. The art and design style that developed during this era is known as Art Deco, named for the Parisian fair where it was first introduced. Art Deco jewelry was extremely popular during the Roaring Twenties and continues to influence modern jewelry styles.

Art Deco jewelry is famous for intense, bold colors, geometric design and the incorporation of a variety of colorful gemstones in one piece. The emphasis of speed that was popular in this era, due to the rise of the automobile and airplane, is also evident in jewelry design. Many Art Deco jewelry pieces featured speed motifs including arrows, cars, planes and panthers.

The discovery of King Tut's tomb in 1923 also influenced jewelry design. Egyptian motifs such as the sphinx, falcon and scarab became popular, as did the jewels that were used in the tomb, including lapis lazuli, carnelian and chalcedony. The use of ivory and jade in jewelry from the Art Deco period is evidence of the Eastern influence during the period.

The unique style that was used during the Art Deco period has made the jewelry very popular with collectors. The addition of an Art Deco ring or a pair of Art Deco earrings to an outfit can give you a whole new look. While some modern jewelers create new pieces of jewelry to resemble those of the Art Deco period, many jewelry collectors prefer authentic Art Deco antique jewelry.

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